Farm to Paris

By Amanda Shulman

The hum of routine chaos wraps me in its cloak of familiar excitement. Vibrant colors, sharp shouts, rich smells, and bustling people fill the space both in front of and behind me. Cries of “deux boîte de cerise pour trois euros” and “poulet roti, trop chaud!” catch my attention, drawing me into the homes of their respective callers. My regular stroll under the white canopies of my most beloved Parisian open-air market is my favorite part of each day. Stalls of the finest produce I’ve ever seen are displayed in full glory; vegetables lying like precious gems on checkered canvases, with their farmers standing behind them like proud fathers. Glass cases of the freshest cheeses greet me around every bend. Some greetings, like that of the creamy young chèvre I’m so fond of, or that of the sharp camembert in my fridge are familial, while others like the aged Fourme d’Ambert yearn to be answered with a taste. The moistest and crispiest roast chickens spinning on rotisserie spits tease me until I’m holding a warm package containing a plump one in my hand. Cured legs of ham beg to be sliced thinly and large meaty chops implore me to trim and sear them.

A flash of pulsating red catches my eye and I quickly make my way back to investigate. Swollen fat tomatoes are piled atop one another, creating a mountain of rosy boulders that are any summer lover’s dream. They’re of the heirloom variety, as craggily snarls crease their top halves, and they are some of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen. And they’re not only red – nestled among them are pale greens and sunny yellows, even purple and orange ones that look like the final drops of a sunset. I’m smitten and take a million pictures, but, having just spent all of my change, I don’t make a purchase.

Later that night I’m out for dinner at one of the city’s hip wine bars that features a daily market-based menu. I spot my treasured tomatoes featured on that night’s menu: an heirloom tomato salad graces the appetizer column while a white fish swimming in an heirloom tomato essence sits in the entrées. I get satisfaction from knowing that whoever designs the menu went to the market and found the same prize I did. They were caught by their blushing beauty and had to share them with the customers. I order both dishes and taste the flavors of the tomatoes I had admired only hours earlier, knowing that tomorrow they may be replaced with the green fingers of asparagus or whatever else grabs the day’s market spotlight.

The daily fresh markets have become a ritual for me, one that never loses its novelty. Talking to a cheese vendor, hearing about his goats and how the chèvre I just purchased was only made 48 hours ago is the type of “farm-to-table” experience available every day to both restaurant chefs and the common citizen. France is known for sourcing its food locally and organically, meaning that people rely on seasonal products hailing from mere miles away. The farm-to-table movement currently sweeping the United States is a carryover from the standing French tradition of keeping food local and organic.

After spending the summer in Paris at Le Cordon Bleu, I’ve become overwhelmed with appreciation for the market-based cooking and associated lifestyle. Paris is a food mecca – it sets the trends and pushes the boundaries – but I believe the real beauty lies in its grasp of the simple concept of seasonal and home-grown ingredients. My food experiences during those weeks were eye-opening. Obviously I received the warnings before I left – promises of incredible food that would make me never want to return would be both a blessing and a curse. But words are mere playthings compared to the act of experiencing the tastes for yourself, because that is serious business that no words can do justice to.

The meals I look back on most fondly all have traces of that principal market-based concept. Many restaurants feature prix fixe menus that adapt to the daily market findings. A decadent lunch at the hotspot Septime was one of my favorite culinary experiences: chunks of tuna sashimi in a tomato broth to start, crispy seared pork belly accompanied by eggplant and chanterelles with a mustard sauce to follow, and a sweet honey-pollen ice cream with granola and raspberries to finish. It wasn’t just the incredible food that made the experience, but the fact that I had seen the components of each dish on my market trips, signaling just how fresh everything was.

So when you head to Paris, I entreat you to check out the rotating open-air markets. Fill a bag with cherry tomatoes, a rotisserie chicken, peachy cherries, some cheese, a tin of briny garlicky olives, and have yourself the most incredible picnic ever. And if you’re in more of a mood to be catered to, then check out some of these spots that also share and showcase my appreciation:

Verjus Wine Bar: A small joint that doesn’t take reservations, Verjus Wine Bar is always packed with a diverse crowd of foodies who mostly speak English. The American chef serves up unreal small plates with bold flavors that can be accompanied by superb glasses of wine from their lengthy list. Make sure to go for lunch as well – the sandwiches are insane. DON’T MISS: fried chicken, hush puppies, and for lunch, the braised pork sandwich.

L’Avant Comptoir: This wine bar became one of my go-to hang out spots. I brought absolutely everyone here because I just adored the vibe. Small, standing room only, and totally lively, L’Avant Comptoir serves small tapas-style plates. Their savory take-away crêpes are also some of the best in the city. DON’T MISS: charcuterie plate, blood sausage macaroon, any crêpe.

Septime: Recently named the 49^th best restaurant in the world, the food really speaks for itself. Fixed menus for lunch and dinner offer some of the lightest and most beautifully composed food you’ll ever have. Just go. Lunch is great and is also half the price of dinner.

Spring: Spring offers a tasting menu that will blow your mind. The food is seasonal, delicate, and absolutely brilliant. Cheese is an option at the end of the meal, but it’s so amazing that it’s really more of a “must.”

L’Entrecôte: Classic French to the core, this spot only serves one thing: steak-frites. Choose your cooking style and then go crazy, as seconds are offered. And you always want seconds. And extra sauce. Extra, extra sauce.

L’As du Fallafel: Located in the coolest district, Le Marais, this falafel house serves one of the best falafels I’ve ever had. While the line may be long and the falafel competition robust, don’t go anywhere else but here. The pita is fluffy, the slaws crisp, and the fried eggplant velvety.

 

Amanda Shulman grew up in Greenwich, Connecticut, but now resides in Philadelphia where she attends the University of Pennsylvania. While she is studying Political Science and Journalism at school, she aspires to have a career in the culinary field. This past summer, she attended Le Cordon Bleu in Paris where she studied classical French cuisine and was named Top 5 in her class. She also interned at Food52.com where she worked in the test kitchen and on the editorial side. Past work experience also includes writing for Philadelphia Magazine’s online food blog, Foobooz. Amanda is the author of Stay Hungree, a food blog on which she shares recipes, reviews restaurants, and divulges her culinary adventures.